Vermont Street BBQ
Monday, July 5, 2004
Something's Going On
Three weeks ago I came home to twelve messages on the machine--unusual.
Most were hang-ups, a couple of baffling apologies, and a warm-voiced woman who ordered ten pounds of brisket, five pounds of pulled pork, fifteen pounds of ribs, beans, slaw, potato salad and extra sauce. She left her number and said "Thanks, honey."
I called this woman back.
"I'm not a BBQ place," I explained. We had a laugh and goodbye. Two minutes later, she called again: "Vermont Street BBQ's got your number on the take-out menu." She was right: a printing error.
The following week the phone rang off the wall. One day I had 32 calls. On that day, I confess, I answered one call as a hot-tempered Chinaman. Maybe someone remembers that.
Old School
Shad Woodworth wanted nothing to do with the restaurant business yet he painted parking lots in Portland, Oregon to put himself through the Western Culinary Institute.
On a lengthy road trip in 2002, Woodworth and business partner Yale Baker, then a golf-course superintendent, resolved that Lawrence needed more BBQ. Six months later they rented the tiny store at 805 Vermont and opened Vermont Street BBQ. Street press praised their BBQ and business boomed.
It didn't take long for the limitations of 500 square feet to become apparent to Baker and Woodworth.
Service was limited to take-out and delivery; there was never enough refrigeration; fried foods and fountain drinks--items of good margin--sacrificed to space constraints; and summers in the cramped and airless shotgun building were miserable. Eventually, economics and the insistence of faithful customers called for a move.
"We were limited to a fixed level of business at the Vermont Street location," says Woodworth. "Our customers wanted more, we did too."
From five hundred square feet, Woodworth and Baker moved to five thousand, and brought three new business partners into the game. All the partners work together at the new restaurant.
Smoking
Mention BBQ and most people think of sauce.
"Smoke is the flavor of BBQ, not sauce," says Woodworth; "It's easy to use sauce to disguise mistakes."
American BBQ styles vary from region to region, but it is in Memphis, land of Al Green and Elvis, where rub and smoke produce miracles. The Memphis style eschews sugary, basted sauces; in Memphis, the rub and the smoke is all.
While Woodworth tosses a nod to Memphis, he makes it clear he's no slave to style, no dogmatic geezer. After all, his are the Lawrence Cut Spare Ribs (longer than St. Louis, shorter than Kansas City), and The Large Turkey Leg, a tender, smoke-kissed haunch from a bird that must be four feet tall.
Two six-foot tall Southern Pride smokers stand side by side under a mighty hood in the smoking room. Woodworth fires them up at five in the morning. Each smoker turns out 600 to 1000 pounds of meat per week. Woodworth uses hickory, apple and cherry wood; recipes for rubs and seasonings he keeps to himself. Trimming and smoking the thirty pounds of beef brisket sold in an average day takes about six hours. Forty pounds of smoked pork shoulder, Vermont Street's top seller, are pulled daily into oversized chunks for platters and succulent sandwiches.
The bakers at Great Harvest, Vermont Street's former neighbor, went to the drawing-board several times before producing a custom bread recipe with a crumb dense enough to support the weight and hold the juices of Vermont Street's hefty portions.
All Down My Shirt
Anymore, I need to prep for BBQ. Good BBQ overwhelms, makes you forget considerations of waistline, immobility and the sin of gluttony. The eating of serious BBQ causes true believers to sweat and swoon and should be undertaken only in a well-chilled room. It's nice and cool at the bar in Vermont Street BBQ, where lately I've had three first-rate BBQ sessions.
Menu: Ham, Beef Brisket, Pulled Pork, Roast Chicken, Turkey, smoked Sausage, Spare Ribs and Rib Tips, Baby Back Ribs (when available); side dishes (all fresh; crisp slaw and very good, not-too-sweet beans), salads, onion rings and fries. Three sauces, each distinct and house-made. Generous portions.
Prices: Very reasonable. Entrees (with sides) $6.50 to $14.95.
Ambience: Casual, clean, efficient--a "neo-joint," in the best way. Good food and happy people are the decorations here.
Service: Friendly, enthusiastic.
Recommended: Smoked Chicken Wings, Pulled Pork, anything to do with Ribs, and The Large Turkey Leg.
Must Have: Smoked Bloody Mary. Smoked tomatoes, pureed and thinned with tomato juice; spiked with garlic, horseradish, hot chile, a secret ingredient and vodka; and garnished with celery, olives, marinated artichoke and a dill pickle--a wet salad with a kick.
Full Bar: PBR cans $1.50.
Entertainment: Occasionally.
Reservations: Large parties call at least 24 hours in advance, and know what you want.
Catering: Pick-up and drop off, minimum 20 people.
"I Love It Here Now"
Woodworth's past experience as a building contractor came into good use during the remodel of the former Paradise location. Whereas the Paradise kitchen was, well, unkempt, the Vermont Street kitchen is spotless and organized. The transformation didn't come easy-- owners and employees worked together for three months, day and night, to exorcise leftover demons.
"Most of our remodel budget was spent on the back of the house," says Woodworth.
In the front of the house, the stained drop ceiling was removed and the original ceiling refinished. The walls, sponged a gaudy chemical hue, were meticulously done over in neutral earth tones. The building now feels clean and spare, like an elegant old house, restored and ready for family. Everywhere, there is room to grow.
Dishwasher Steve Brown, a journeyman in local restaurants, also washed dishes for Paradise. He's plainly delighted with his new, shining office.
"Oh, I love it here now," he says.
Of Interest
"When Columbus arrived in the Caribbean in 1492, he "discovered" the Taino Native Americans cooking fish and wild game hung on a wooden structure over coals. The Taino word for the wooden structure sounded to the explorers like barbacoa.
The Spanish explorers returned to Europe with this new word and "new" cooking method. Because the printing press had come into use, the word of the discoveries -- including barbacoa -- quickly spread across Europe.
Soon after, de Soto and others who explored present-day Florida brought swine from Europe. The swine quickly spread throughout the southeast."
--The American Barbecue Conjecture, Joe O'Connell; www.ccba.com
"Perhaps no Americans know more than skilled blacks about the cooking of wild game for festive meals Bob Jeffries, who began cooking on an Alabama farm and who became a caterer and a chef de cuisine in New York, put on paper his memory of what he called a "true" barbecue: "Back home we used hickory logs and when the coals were just right to lay the chicken or ribs on, you could smell the fragrance for miles around." The meats, he said, were carefully arranged, "close together on the grill so that the smoke was trapped under them and not lost in the air. The fats will drip down into the hot ash and steam back up into the meat which also adds flavor."
--American Food, Evan Jones; Overlook Press 1990.
"The most plausible theory states that the word "barbecue" is a derivative of the West Indian term "barbacoa," which denotes a method of slow cooking meat over hot coals. Bon Appetit magazine blithely informs its readers that the word comes from an extinct tribe in Guyana who enjoyed "cheerfully spit-roasting captured enemies." The Oxford English Dictionary traces the word back to Haiti, and others claim (somewhat implausibly), that "barbecue" actually comes from the French phrase "barbe a queue", meaning "from head to tail." Proponents of this theory point to the whole-hog cooking method espoused by some barbecue chefs. Tar Heel magazine posits that the word "barbecue' comes from a nineteenth century advertisement for a combination whiskey bar, beer hall, pool establishment and purveyor of roast pig, known as the BAR-BEER-CUE-PIG. The most convincing explanation is that the method of roasting meat over powdery coals was picked up from indigenous peoples in the colonial period, and that "barbacoa" became "barbecue" in the lexicon of early settlers."
-- The Etymology of Barbecue
"Barbecuing lies at the opposite end of the spectrum from true grilling. It is a long, slow, indirect, low-heat method that uses smoldering logs or charcoal and wood chunks to smoke-cook the food, usually some sort of meat. Low heat generates smoke (the wood smolders, it doesn't burn), and this smoke gives barbecue its characteristic flavor. Barbecuing is primarily a New World phenomenon, originating in the Caribbean and reaching its apotheosis in Texas, Tennessee, Missouri and the American South in general."
--The Barbecue Bible, Steven Raichlen; Workman Publishing 1998.
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Comments
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Posted by 1891 (anonymous) on July 6, 2004 at 1:40 p.m. (Suggest removal)
You're a sinner for liking barbee q, but i'll save you throo my insufferable whining. Married life is so ossome. Soon I'll have sex, when I'm absolutely sure the statue of limititions on sin is up, and then I'll blog about it. You can't wait. Sorry not to contribute anithing to your blog or to the internet, but I'm super grate.
Posted by Joel (Joel Mathis) on July 6, 2004 at 4:08 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Full disclosure: I have a good friend who's part of the ownership group.
That said, mmmboy, I sure do love the ribs at Vermont St. They're different from the ribs in many other bbq joints I've been to, in that they have *meat* on them. Plus, not being all sauced up, you don't have to make a humongous mess of yourself. And they're tasty.
Posted by Blue (anonymous) on July 6, 2004 at 5:28 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Why in the world would you think it's okay to use the term "Chinaman"? Maybe that means we can bring any number of the other old racial slurs too? It's rude, derogatory and insulting. Please stop.
Posted by counterlife (anonymous) on July 6, 2004 at 9:41 p.m. (Suggest removal)
To Blue: What politically correct substitute do you suggest for "Chinaman", particularly in the context of the story (true or bloggertainment, as it may be)? How about "highly annoyed American of chinese extraction" or "angry man born in China " or "pissed off male Chinese immigrant"? I am curious/perplexed about the major offense many people seem to take over what they define as "bad" words or bad cultural expressions. I think those words and all others are expressed in a specific context and never mean any one absolute thing outside the context. Recently, while walking my dog near the outdoor "aquatic center" (formerly known as the swimming pool), I came upon a multi-racial group of young teen-agers exploring the possibilities of calling each other "nigger", "bitch" and "motherfucker". At some point in my distant youth this might have disturbed me and caused some boring "I know the way" PC lament and desire to point out their errors. But what they were doing is not necessarily wrong. Taken in context, it was simply exploration of the meaning of words in the world they (not I) inhabit. Perhaps we might relax a bit, and then listen, read, connect, and move on to explore. Behavior matters more than words. I acknowledge that words are also behavior. But all that means is that words are just as contextually complex and difficult of judging as behavior. I supsect you know little of Mr. King's behavior toward others and yet you are ready to judge him based on a word. Why? Kindly address your responses, if any, to "Mean Old Cunt". Of course, the more accurate and politically correct version would be: "Mildly Angry (and Highly Amused) Middle Aged Bitch", but that does sound a bit whiny - a bit like your response to Mr. King. Best wishes anyway - I enjoyed thinking about this response.
Mr. King: I apologize for responding to the changed subject. I enjoy your foodie information very much although I must admit I have never really understood the pleasures of barbeque. Please continue to educate. Regards from counterlife.
Posted by jarretwp (anonymous) on July 7, 2004 at 3:21 a.m. (Suggest removal)
The preferred nomenclature is asian american.
Posted by jarretwp (anonymous) on July 7, 2004 at 3:22 a.m. (Suggest removal)
by the way, the chinamen is not the issue dude, great BBQ is.
Posted by mmarchin (anonymous) on July 8, 2004 at 1:59 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I ate at VT st awhile ago and it was not good. At least what my boyfriend and I got was gross (chicken, brisket ). Not to mention that the waitress knew my boyfriend and wouldn't go away.
Posted by mitzibel (Misty Nuckolls) on July 8, 2004 at 10:04 p.m. (Suggest removal)
Indeed. If Tom King's use of the word "chinaman" were the most offensive thing on this site, I highly doubt it would have the readership it does. This is one of my favorite blogs, by the way, every one completely worth the wait.
--Foul-Mouthed Cracker Bitch
Posted by blondie77 (anonymous) on July 9, 2004 at 12:14 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I would love to sing the praises of Vermont Street BBQ! I am a self-described BBQ fiend ... and I think Vermont Street is doing a top-notch job. I was pleasantly surprised to find my pulled pork "dry." It really showcases the quality of the preparation and product.
Oh, I am also a little bias ... but just a little. I went to high school with Yale and Shad. They are great guys and deserve all the praise they are receiving.
(Hi Shad and Yale ... it's Kari Marshall. Everytime I have been in you guys aren't there. Hopefully I will see you guys soon.)
Posted by rob (Rob Curley) on July 9, 2004 at 6:39 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I agree with the foul-mouthed cracker bitch -- every post by Tom King is worth the wait.
And Vermont St. BBQ is great. If you had a bad experience there, I suggest you try it again. I've had a marginal meal at nearly all of my favorite restaurants. It happens. They're my favorite restaurants because it doesn't happen often, and the rest of the time, I know I'm going to get a good meal. I'd love to see Tom write about that sometime.
When you read Tom's blogs, you not only learn about a particular restaurant, you learn about the art of running a restaurant. Every person who wants to open a restaurant in Lawrence should be encouraged to read Tom's blog about the Paradise.
BTW -- Mitzibel, I miss your blog, too. Regardless of whether I agree or disagree with you, I always look forward to your blogs. Write more! You have interesting things to say even when you're just writing about hippies.
Posted by lazz (anonymous) on July 12, 2004 at 11:48 a.m. (Suggest removal)
good stuff, TK, thanks. eager to get in there and check out the new location. also eager to explain this to alert out-of-town visitors, why vermont street bbq is on mass st. .... quirky is good.
i hafta take some exception to mmarchin's comment, while acknowledging I, too, am guilty: small-business owners work their tails off and risk everything to make a go of it and provide us with a service we otherwise wouldn't enjoy. one bad experience does not a bad business make, and it's unfair, the way I see it, to spread word far and wide after a single bad experience, especially when it's based on something so personal as "the waitress knew my boyfriend...."
i'm guilty, too -- not of knowing your boyfriend, but of thinking my uninformed opinion should be broadcast ... one marginal plate of food or snotty server and I'll be spoutin' off like I'm the Galloping Gourmet ... Tom's columns have helped illustrate for me the myriad details that go into making a restaurant and how many variables must be accounted for. ... OK, now, let's see, do my servers know anybody's boyfriends, and might they chat with the customers? Is that good or bad? ....
If I have repeated bad experiences (say, Paradise), I don't feel bad about commenting on that among friends. One bad trip to a place that otherwise gets raves? I'm gonna try to be mature enough to give it another go before doing my part to throw dirt on somebody else's dreams, and I'll hope they might have the same consideration for me ...
this also gets at the heart of my anger at the commission's ruling on smoking. With this one vote, they fundamentally altered the rules of doing business, with absolutely ZERO regard for the people who took made the huge gamble to open and run these businesses (and provide employment for people who are apparently too ignorant, accordiing to our City Fathers, to make their own decisions about whether or not they want to work in a smoke-filled room.) If the commission might have said, OK, in two years, or five years, we're gonna change things; get ready; consider yourself warned ... well, that would be one thing. To say, we're doing this, we're changing the rules and changing them NOW, so lump it, we simply don't care what you think, we don't care that YOU are the people out there taking the chance, rolling the dice, not us, and we have power over you, so we're gonna just step on you knaves at our whim ...
man, it all just comes down to some fundamental respect for people who take the huge gamble of opening businesses ...
blah blah blah, sorry to rant ...
Posted by 1981 (Jason Barr) on July 12, 2004 at 12:53 p.m. (Suggest removal)
hmmm, good blog. I'm gettin hungry and now I just want to know who took the time to make a new screen name, only to mock me in such a terrible way. ha ha ha ha. Keep up the good work Tom.
-jbarr
Posted by mitzibel (Misty Nuckolls) on July 14, 2004 at 1:14 a.m. (Suggest removal)
jbarr, you have a great attitude, regardless of whether or not I agree with your opinions. Not many folks your age--or any age, for that matter--can remain relatively pleasant and mature when responding to the kind of heat you take. Kudos to you, and I hope you're enjoying the hell out of married life.
Thanks, Rob, I truly appreciate that, and it put a big ol' shit-eating grin on my face.
Posted by mmarchin (anonymous) on July 20, 2004 at 8:50 a.m. (Suggest removal)
reply to lazz -
I'm not blaming the restaurant for the server knowing my boyfriend, sorry, shouldn't have said that.
But the food that I ordered off the menu did not taste good. I thought people might want to avoid ordering the brisket. I liked the bread, but the beans were a little too onion-y for me. My boyfriend ordered chicken and also didn't like it.
More information is better than less and I'm just telling the truth... Fair and balanced, y'know?
Posted by simon (Simon Willison) on July 21, 2004 at 12:18 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I've eaten at Vermont St. four times in the last week. I'm pretty sure I'm a lot heavier now.
Posted by rychelj7 (anonymous) on October 3, 2004 at 3:11 p.m. (Suggest removal)
I love Vermont St. BBQ!!! I was never really a big fan of BBQ until I began to frequent this awesome place over a year ago. My faves are the smoked turkey and the sausage. I'm so excited about the new place too, the move up was much needed. :)
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