Come In, Kind Spirits

By Tom King

Monday, November 7, 2005

Much of the recent flurry of restaurant activity downtown is occurring on or near Eighth Street. At Eighth and New Hampshire, the new Pachamama's is taking shape on one corner and, across the street, the low-keyed, high-spirited Mirth is settling into the space previously occupied by Café Nova. Half a block south of Eighth and New Hampshire, Krause Dining--where the Governor noshes on occasion--holds court. Teller's, now in its twelfth year at Eighth and Mass and still one of the prettiest rooms in town, has made significant changes in both the front and the back of the house. And just north of Eighth on Mass, the irrepressible Su Ken, (Wa, Sushi Station), is poised to open Café Beautiful in the space above Vermont Street BBQ. Up at Seventh and Mass, in the revitalized Eldridge Hotel, the window seats at Ten fill up early at lunchtime.

Two-Headed Chef Discovered at Teller’s

To my knowledge, Teller's is the only upscale restaurant in town whose kitchen is run by co-executive chefs. It isn't a new idea, though a tricky one. But if the personalities involved get along well, the possibilities and capabilities of the kitchen can be greatly enhanced.

Michael Beard and Jason Smith complement each other’s skills and styles--and personalities. Whereas previous Teller's kitchens have frequently operated under a distinct "Dirty Dozen" staffing philosophy, Beard' and Smith's kitchen is calm, focused and professional. Both chefs are trained: Beard at Apicius in Florence, Italy, and Smith at Johnson County. Prior to the Teller's collaboration, Beard was the chef at The Polo Grill in Oklahoma City, Smith at Marisco’s in Lawrence.

Michael Beard's year and a half in Italy brings to the table a connection to the tastes and preparations of true Italian food. Jason Smith brings superior skills in production and technique--for the first time in a long while, Teller's dishes can be said to have been executed with finesse. And, increasingly, dishes incorporate locally produced, all-natural and organic ingredients.

"We order our pork on Wednesday; they butcher on Friday," says Smith.

The Fall menu introduced last month lists classic Osso Bucco (wine-braised veal shanks, $28), and Bauman’s chicken roasted with olive oil, garlic, lemon and rosemary ($19); both main dishes accompanied by butternut squash risotto. Teller's pasta is handmade, in house, for lasagna and cannelloni, and for four types of ravioli (including lobster, $15-$24).

"To understand Italian food, you need to understand seasonal products and preparations. For instance, Osso Bucco takes all day to cook. When else are you going to want a hot oven in your house other than in winter?" says Beard.

Many of the new dishes are baked or roasted in the wood-fired ovens: a flatbread freshly baked with pear, gorgonzola and honey (a "Saporito", $7), is the breakout on the revised appetizer menu. Seafood cannelloni ($18) are wood-fired with ricotta and roasted tomatoes. Also on the appetizer menu: an imported olive oil flight (three one-ounce pours, $9), eloquently expounds on the range of flavors of good Italian olive oil; the Formaggi Misti (market price), does the same for cheese. A cup of Teller's Pappa al Pomodoro (literally, "tomato mush" with a sprinkling of Parmesan, $2.50), beloved in Tuscany as a physical and spiritual restorative, will ward off any chills.

Sommelier and manager Thomas Goerdel recently moved from Texas to join the Teller's team. His Wednesday night wine tastings have become an underground hit.

After seven or eight years, many restaurants "sag". True to form, Teller's slump hit about four years ago. More often than not, these sags are fatal--everyone's pooped, money's tight. But of the restaurants that prevail through the sag, a high percentage will endure. Due, in large part, to the work of general manager Matt Hyde, Teller's not only prevails, but, in the past two years, has taken several steps upwards. Ignoring dire predictions, Hyde sought solutions--and a business is only as good as its people. New talent has brought skill and spirit back to Teller's, a shine which seems to be steadily growing brighter.

Get Real and Laugh

I can't recall the last time I went to a restaurant and wished the prices were higher.

I wished that on my first visit to Mirth. A very good, twelve-ounce rib eye with Gorgonzola, or halibut with asparagus, for twelve dollars? "This place won’t last long," I thought, which was too bad.

With all the upscale dining going on in the vicinity, Mirth offers a nice counterpoint: a San Francisco neighborhood vibe; kind of Zen, kind of brainy, comfortable and casual. High ceilings, simple furniture and tile floors give Mirth's main room the air of a patio; a fountain tinkles beneath Nina Simone, a couple lazily eats waffles on the couch, and people at tables sip coffee and work on laptops, or read Ouspensky. "Townies, thirtysomethings, people into the arts…" says chef and Mirth partner Rick Seifert of his clientele, "… a lot of regulars already". Mirth opened softly in early September.

Siefert has an affinity for soul food, primarily the soul foods of Italy and the Mediterranean: proscuitto, olives, feta, gorgonzola, sweet peppers, fennel and chickpeas turn up in soups (try the lentil and fennel), salads--the radish, apple and provolone in particular--sandwiches ($6), pizza ($7)omelets and breakfast burritos ($4). But you can also get, for breakfast (served until 4 pm), red beans and rice and a warm tortilla ($4)--now that’s civilized! Or some very good biscuits ($1.50), and the deservedly popular waffles, Classic American or wholegrain, with fruit ($4.50).

"We’re busiest from 8.30 am to 1.30," Siefert smiles, halfway through another 14 hour day. The Mirth kitchen is open seven days a week, from 7 am to 9 pm (coffee until midnight). "The work is worth it," says Siefert; "this is my dream".

Siefert's recipes are simple, bulletproof; his flavors are clear and balanced, his pantry limited to essentials. He runs a scratch kitchen, and Siefert's menu is tight--better to do a few things very well than many things poorly. At times, the food takes a while, but after three visits, it's always been worth the wait.

"Cost that food out. Check your menu prices," I advised Siefert at the end of our interview. Seifert assured me that prices had been adjusted.

Hate to be a spoiler, but I'd like to see Mirth stick around. Its the kind of neighborhood restaurant Lawrence needs more of: tasty, well-made food, pleasant and comfortable surroundings, warm service, a distinct character and fair prices. Mirth is a labor of love, charming and obvious.

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Posted by rednekbuddha (Kelly Powell) on November 8, 2005 at 8:47 a.m. (Suggest removal)

Huh.....I've been in a restaraunt rut for too long, I'll have to try these new places.
I've said it before, but here it is agan all at one time MY DREAM LIST OF PLACES WE NEED IN LAWRENCE

1: A koren joint (we had murrahs but they picked a shitty locale) preferably one that does the table side bulgogi.... and lots of octopus

2: A german place.... Not one of those crappy buffet style ones, but a good solid place where I can get my saurbrauten and hossenpheifer.

3: a fish in chips joint....A nice seafood place..Nuff said on that

4: Another good breakfast joint...Preferably one that has "red or green" options( a southwest thing)

Posted by mitzibel (Misty Nuckolls) on November 8, 2005 at 2:35 p.m. (Suggest removal)

Off subject, but what the hell.

Finally made it out to try Tortas Jaliscos. Mmmmmm. Thanks for the tip, Tom, and, judging from the packed house and diverse crowd, the place is doing a brisk business. I did, however, laugh my ass off at a herd of sorostitutes who came in, began oooh-ing and ahhh-ing over the menu, only to pick up their Luis Vitton bags and stomp out in a huff when informed that the place didn't have a liquor license. Overheard as they were leaving: "What's the point of eating Mexican food if you can't drink Margaritas?"

IMHO, El Mescal can keep 'em. It was nice to enjoy an authentic Mexican meal without having to endure tequila-amplified squeals of "OhmyGAWD!"

Posted by beatle919 (Marcy McGuffie) on November 8, 2005 at 4:41 p.m. (Suggest removal)

Jaysus...I'm still trying to recover from my first outing to Tortas Jaliscos last night. I had chicken fajitas that set my mouth on fire...I couldn't care less that I didn't have a margarita as the ice tea I downed helped temper the fire.

I dunno...I wasn't all that impressed. Then again, I can't handle much heat...

Posted by harperjo (anonymous) on November 9, 2005 at 10:27 p.m. (Suggest removal)

I grew up in Lawrence, and I miss the days when one could go downtown and get an honest meal, one without French overtones or a chipotle in it. What ever happened to American food? There's no shame in having an American menu. Does every steak have to have some tricky topping? How about a downtown diner - steak and eggs, biscuits and gravy, salisbury steak. If someone were to do that restaurant honestly, they would make a fortune. I say screw all these import chefs with their dumbass ideas; they are all johnny-come-lately hyenas, and are ruining our perfectly good Kansas cuisine.

Posted by rednekbuddha (Kelly Powell) on November 10, 2005 at 4:16 a.m. (Suggest removal)

of the three foods you named, two of them have a "mother sauce " in them....Which is french.

Posted by mitzibel (Misty Nuckolls) on November 10, 2005 at 1:51 p.m. (Suggest removal)

Heh. Buddha, you're cool, and you're exactly right. Without French influence we'd all be eating boiled potatoes.

Posted by lazz (anonymous) on November 10, 2005 at 2:15 p.m. (Suggest removal)

oh rubbish. The French might have invented the restaurant, but they didn't invent cooking.
Can anybody say Mediterranean?
Chinese?
Japanese?
Spanish?
Native American?

Besides, even if some of us don't agree with harperjo's cullinary xenophobia, that doesn't mean there's no such thing as "american" food. Just because a dish might have a sauce whose heritage can be traced to Europe doesn't mean the dish itself hasn't been thoroughly Americanized.
And as for harperjo's comment that there's no American food in Lawrence, I'd recommend he try Odessa's. Or First Watch. Set 'Em Up Jacks.
Plenty of places to find meatloaf, fried catfish, steak ...

Posted by beatle919 (Marcy McGuffie) on November 10, 2005 at 3:34 p.m. (Suggest removal)

"cullinary xenophobia" Cute!

I'm kinda the same way...or just a food snob.

Posted by tomking (Tom King) on November 13, 2005 at 10:27 a.m. (Suggest removal)

American food? Hamburgers and hot dogs? From Germany (though the Corn Dog, I believe, is an American invention). French fries? Pizza? Italy. Meatloaf? A rustic pate; from Europe, perfected in France.
True American food is what native Americans ate:squash, beans, corn, turkey, bison and dog. Everything else has been imported.

Posted by mike_shields (Mike Shields) on November 16, 2005 at 5:27 p.m. (Suggest removal)

Thanks for the dining recommendations and commentary.

Come In, Kind Spirits

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