Smoky eyes, natural lips highlights of NY show

— The verdict is in on the hot new beauty trends: The "eyes" have it.

Nidia Alire from Stila said "smoky eyes" can be created using mossy green, plum and russet shadows.

"The black or gray smoky eye can be messy for many women. The color makes it soft," she said backstage before The Faces of Fashion Fall 2001 beauty runway show.

Dramatic eye makeup dominated the looks at the beauty show. It featured looks created by 15 of the brands carried at Sephora stores nationwide.

The shimmery shadows and blushes of past seasons have been replaced with matte colors for a more "polished" look, Alire added.

Urban Decay also created a bold eye, using colorful shadows paired with a dark, heavy line made with liquid eyeliner.

"It's the whole 'bad girl' thing," said Wende Zomnir, Urban Decay's creative director. She said must-have products include a liquid eyeliner and deep purple, peacock green and teal shadows.

Charlie Green, who did the makeup for Sephora Artist, agreed that the new look is all about "a gorgeous eye." She created a rainbow look for the models, with broad lines of greens and blues that extended up to the brow bone and out to the temple.

"I don't like wishy-washy color," she said. "It's about bright, saturated color."

Light, natural lip and cheek colors offset the dramatic eye makeup. Zomnir warned: "Either strong eyes or strong lips. Not both."

Cheeks were mostly pretty pinks that gave a fresh, natural-looking glow. Lips ran the gamut from sheer shines to pinks, mauves and corals. Deeper colors, like berries and browns, tended to be matte. There was the occasional classic red lipstick in both matte and shine.

Hairstyles were easygoing and loose.

"I like hair that is whimsical, playful. ... It doesn't look like a hairdo. It's effortless," said hairstylist Frederic Fekkai. With a medium-barrel curling iron, Fekkai gave a runway model a head full of ringlets, which he then loosened with his fingers. He called the look Bohemian, or a "cascade of curls." He blew-dry another model's long, layered hair to give it a shaggy, slightly messy look.

Hairstylist Danilo said he has not seen a dominating trend. "Anything goes."

One notable style is "making longer hair look short by different ways of wrapping it." He also did some asymmetrical bangs and some "punky" looks.

Although the natural lip and cheek colors and loose hairstyles are a boon for women who don't employ makeup artists and hairstylists, the season's heavy eye makeup could be intimidating to women who want to re-create the look.

"Obviously this is a strong look for the runway," Green said. "For real life it's about picking one color."

She also recommends steering clear of pink and red shades around the eye, which might make the wearer look sick.

Zomnir said people should not be afraid of piling on the eyeshadow, but they should practice diligently to get their technique down.


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