Monday, January 16, 2006
Colorist/Stylist: Brad Hestand
Occupation: Stylist at Bluedot Salon
Education: Brad studied at Xenon Beauty School in Wichita and an apprenticeship at the Eric Fisher Salon in Wichita. Stylist and colorist at the Bluedot Salon since February, 2003.
With this re-do (cut, color and makeup), Brad is pulling from a French noir reference. "Jeanne Moreau," he said. "I am influenced a lot by the French: '60s and '70s French pop culture. I love red."
Model: Robban Kring
Hometown: Kansas City
Occupation: Ten server
"I will be using a block color technique with a vibrant copper red and a rich chocolaty brown. We're going to do a little beret on her," he said. Brad used a pre-pigment on the hair to even out the pores of Robban's hair. He created a curvilinear shape on the crown of her head with the rich brown hues. He placed it asymmetrically like a beret over the red shade.
After the color Brad shampooed Robban with Goldwells Definition for Color and Highlight and followed with a conditioner from the same line.
"I am going to use the color with the cut. It will be a disconnected cut. The dark area will be heavier while the red underneath will be undercut so it won't look layered." Brad used shears for the cut because Robban has curly, processed hair. "I'm also doing a lot of free-hand weight removal to create movement."
Hair at the moment:
"Hair and beauty follow the fashion world. It is our job as hairdressers to interpret what is going on in fashion. This bohemian thing keeps coming back. So hair color now is jewel tones," he said. "Reds, olive greens and navy are my inspiration now."
"Long hair is still having a moment. But people are also bobbing their hair again. Hair is kinetic, meaning it has constant movement and flow. Even straight hairstyles have movement now."
"I look at what era someone may look like. And Robban has prominent eyes and a modest lip. This is very indicative of the '20s. Kind of vamp."
"It's an evening look. New Year's. I am going to do a deep nude eye."
Products used in story
Smashbox Photo Finish Corrector: "It's green so it gets rid of pinky red tones. It's also a foundation primer that smoothes out the skin."
Sephora Concealer: "Look for the antithesis. Pale purple cancels out yellow, sallow skin."
Lancome Tinted Moisturizer applied with fingers
Trucco Cream Blush and Cream Highlighter
Mehron Pro-Theater Translucent Powder (available at Fun and Games): "Nothing absorbs oil better. There's been a return to the matte look."
A bronzey shimmer
Brad brushed and shaped Robban's eyebrows and then filled them in with a shadow rather than a pencil. "It looks more natural."
Liquid Eyeliner by Revlon: "There is no need to always buy expensive."
"The best trick to getting liquid eyeliner right is to go over it with a shadow." Brad used a shiny black shadow from MAC.
Poole Eye Shadow in a pale pink
Snow-white shadow at outer eye up to the brown
Revlon Fabulash Mascara in Black
Vincent Longo lip stain in Liquid Kiss
Aveda lipstick in Shanghai
Brad's favorite product right now: Goldwell Move Control ($17.50 available at Bluedot)
A lightweight pomade for wet or dry hair. It's light enough for all hair types. "It gives hair a lot of movement. That kinetic thing I'm going for."