September 8, 2005
![][1]_Please ask where your food comes from, what's in it, how it was made, how it was raised, and we will tell you. That's only fair and we are happy to do it._" - Hilary Brown, [Local Burger][2] restaurant owner. Mad cow, bad salmon, E. coli, GMOs and the rising price of gasoline... Over the past five years, these issues have improved the lot of America's small farmers - especially organic and transitioning farmers. When it comes to food integrity, the closer you are to the source, the better the quality and the surer the provenance. In Lawrence, locally grown and organic produce has appeared nearly exclusively on upscale and fine dining menus. Generally, the superior quality of labor-intensive organic produce and of all-natural meats translates to higher restaurant food costs, which translates to higher menu prices. Until now. "Why should tasty, wholesome food be regularly accessible only to the privileged few?" asks Hilary Brown. "Why shouldn't everyone eat good, clean food?" Brown's culinary love-child, Local Burger, is opening this week in the space formerly occupied by Mojo's at 714 Vermont. And while she has designed her menu to generously accommodate vegetarians, vegans and special diets, it would be a mistake to label it a "hippie place." Nor is Brown's food sterile and clinical. "Food has to taste good. Otherwise, who wants to eat it?" says Brown, a Lawrence native who has taught classes on food and nutrition at the Community Mercantile over the past two years. "I love good home cooking. But what we find to eat at most franchise places, fast food joints and even in some high-end independent restaurants are products and attitudes that only serve the bottom line. Rarely do you find a place that even considers - much less honors - every aspect of the food production process." The menu starts with a variety of burgers: grass-fed buffalo burgers from Sunset Ridge Bison in Clinton, elk burgers from Winchester, beef burgers from Amy's Meats in Lawrence and tofu filets from Central Soy Foods. The burger set-ups - lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle - are all organic. Side dishes include the "We're Not In Kansas Anymore Salad" (featuring hijiki, a sea vegetable); a quinoa-millet pilaf; tamari-seasoned brown rice and sunflower seeds; cinnamon applesauce (no sugar added); and Brown's addictive-as-french-fries Progressive Potatoes (air-baked red potatoes). There's also an inspired Tuna Salad (olive oil, mustard, capers, celery, walnuts, avocado and greens); an all-organic roasted vegetable salad; a vegan Caesar; a robust buffalo chili (Lone Star Buffalo); and, with a nod to the bygone Paradise Cafe, a bowl of steamed brown rice with veggies and tamari (tofu or cheese can be added). Specialties are fresh juices and smoothies (coconut milk or soy milk, with supplement options of flax seed, chia seed, Brazil nuts, walnuts and extra-virgin coconut oil). House-made drinks include sweet lime water (sweetened with stevia, an herb), local cider (when available), and the Master Cleanse (apple cider vinegar, honey, cayenne). Local Burger will open with a full-time staff of 12, and there's no doubt that Brown will take her cooks to school. Brown's cooking standards are impeccable, and her ingredients unusual to many of the cooks on the local restaurant circuit (quinoa? probiotic powder?). "Clean food starts with a clean house," Brown states, and a look around the spotless, tailored kitchen and the bright, sleek dining room immediately confirms Brown's statement. And that tricked-out, cherry red 1960s California Cruiser you'll soon see whizzing back and forth on Mass? That's Local Burger's delivery vehicle, servicing the immediate downtown area for $7.50 minimum orders (delivery not to begin for a few weeks). "We'll look at expanding our delivery service according to demand," says Amy Price, the manager of Local Burger. "And we'll be offering organic beers and wines in the next few months." The environment, the local economy, sustainable agriculture, humane animal husbandry, genetic tampering and unnatural food additives-these crucial considerations continue to gain importance in the national restaurant consciousness, but the progress remains slow. And in a town with a limited pool of dining-out dollars - especially a college town - inexpensive food too often reflects low-quality, mass-produced ingredients and careless, unskilled preparation. After all, there's a new crop of students every August. ![][3] Local Burger's prices are not much higher than the average chain burger joint - a couple of bucks, maybe - but the quality of the food certainly is. And as gasoline prices continue to rise, as our over-scaled, greed-driven and chemical-based food production systems continue to self-destruct, eating locally produced food is not just an intelligent choice - it's the future. [Local Burger][2] is slated to debut on Wednesday (Sept. 14). Call ahead to be sure 856-STAR. [1]: http://media.lawrence.com/img/blogs/streetlevel/localburger-amy_hilary.jpg [2]: http://www.lawrence.com/places/local_burger/ [3]: http://media.lawrence.com/img/blogs/streetlevel/localburger-detail.jpg
Comments
lawrence.com does not necessarily agree with comments posted below - responsibility lies with the relevant user alone. Read our full policy.
lazz (anonymous) says...
I can't wait to try the burgers, buffalo chili and tuna salad! Good luck to you all in your new business! I'll sure be there as soon as you open ...
Tom, you reference "Amy's Meats," apparently as a local butcher.
Don't know about that place. Do they sell retail, to individual customers?
September 9, 2005 at 9:37 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
lori (anonymous) says...
I think I just found my new favorite restaurant!
I can't wait to eat there. Thanks, Tom, for the blog.
Lori
September 9, 2005 at 9:46 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
lilchick (anonymous) says...
Elk meat is awesome. It's wonderful for people who love meat but need to watch their fat/cholesterol intake...check out this link for more info.... http://www.oeba.ca/pages/prdcts/meat_...
I can't wait to try this place out simply because it does support local business!
September 9, 2005 at 11:08 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
quinn (Patrick Quinn) says...
My doctor told me my cheeseburger days are done, but after reading this, I'm hitchiking down I-70 to show up for the opening. At least I'll die happy!
September 9, 2005 at 11:26 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
anne_francis (anonymous) says...
Also, check out Deb Chaussee's artwork while you're down there!
http://www.lawrence.com/news/2003/oct...
September 9, 2005 at 12:33 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
ladylaw (Terry Bush) says...
I am SO looking forward to checking them out. Any place Tom loves is probably one I'll like! (PS - thanks for the tip on the 6th & Kasold Thai Siam place.... Well worth checking out...we'll be back!)!
September 9, 2005 at 12:38 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
mitzibel (Misty Nuckolls) says...
Mmmmmm. . . .finally, a burger I can feed the little 'un guilt-free. Tom, have I mentioned lately how much you rock??
September 9, 2005 at 2:03 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
lilchick (anonymous) says...
quinn, seriously, my doctor told me my cheeseburger days were done too....something about my cholesterol being too high at 290 for a 22 year old girl who only weighs 115lbs. So I took the info on elk and buffalo to him, and was told that in moderation those types of red meat would be acceptable! And, if cooked right, elk is very juicy and has a lot more flavor than beef. I'm soooo excited to go try this place out!!!
September 9, 2005 at 2:06 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Dazie (Aileen Dingus) says...
We should descend upon it in a herd. Start their business life off with a bang! Who's with me?
(Misty- I'm lookin' at YOU!!!)
September 9, 2005 at 2:26 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
mitzibel (Misty Nuckolls) says...
I hear ya, Dazie. Sounds like a plan--email me and we'll work out the particulars. "As for me and my house, we serve the COW--preferably rare, with a side of garlic mashed potatoes."
September 9, 2005 at 2:31 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
lilchick (anonymous) says...
I've already lined up a group of 5 or so my friends to go check it out next week......
September 9, 2005 at 2:32 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
quinn (Patrick Quinn) says...
lilchick--
Thanks for the info!
September 9, 2005 at 3:21 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
lilchick (anonymous) says...
No problem! That website I linked to has a great stat chart comparing the different types of meat and how they stack up to each other as far as chol., fat, proteins, and calories. I got the website from my aunt whose hubby to be actually raises elk. So you know I've got to push it!!!!
September 9, 2005 at 4:31 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
beatle919 (Marcy McGuffie) says...
Dazie, Misty...you girls are cheatin' on me? Is three a crowd? ;) Damn, I'm shameless...
September 9, 2005 at 10:59 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Dazie (Aileen Dingus) says...
Beatle- we'd never forget you. :)
September 10, 2005 at 6:55 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
beatle919 (Marcy McGuffie) says...
Sweet! I was starting to feel like the redheaded stepchild.
September 10, 2005 at 7:28 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Jester (Nick Spacek) says...
They brought us menus at the bakery the other day, and we've been salivating at the thought of eating there for days now. I am eagerly anticipating.
September 10, 2005 at 3:05 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Dazie (Aileen Dingus) says...
Jester- I saw one at "Mirth" (Formerly Nova) Ditto on the salivating!!
September 10, 2005 at 3:55 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
crazyleaflady (anonymous) says...
So, are they opening Monday or Wednesday? The guy delivering the menus downtown said Monday. I want my Local Burger!!
September 11, 2005 at 6:08 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
wilson (Wilson Miner) says...
Got to say I loved the food. Great idea, great experience. I hope it does well.
Got to say though, the prices left me feeling like I made a charitable donation. I understand it's got to be a little more since they've got to go out of their way to wrangle all the different suppliers, but when a cheeseburger and fries costs $10, it's only so far (and so often) I can extend my support for a local labor of love.
September 14, 2005 at 4:36 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
monkeywrench (Tim vonHolten) says...
oops. i wrote my review on the "fine newcomers" blog. sorry.
September 15, 2005 at 1:43 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
tim_78 (anonymous) says...
I was really excited about this place, but really disappointed after I ate there. The portions were really small (think regular McDonald's patty size) and it was really expensive $9 for a burger, non-fries and a glass of water. Food was very average, there are at least ten local places that can give you a much better burger for a lot less.
I recommend staying away.
October 23, 2005 at 10 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
kimharrison2 (anonymous) says...
Well, I was so hoping for an experience similar to the days of the Lotus, with great smoothies, organic ingredients, wide variety. Needless to say, I am very disappointed. The food was ghastly overpriced, especially when you can't even get a garnish for your burger, it just arrives in a sterile red basket, stuck to a sheet of wax paper. The greek salad was fine, except for the fact that it was served with black olives, not greek olives, all for the price of 7.50, with no bread, crackers, nothing. My child ordered a smoothie for 2.50 which was literally raspberry yogurt thinned down with some milk, it appeared. They were out of potatoes, the only legitimate-appearing side dish, and the one clearly touted as 'progressive', leaving the customer with a watering mouth and an empty stomache. I was really hoping for more--the inside is very clean, simple, perfect in every way. But to spend 20.00 on a meal that left one hungry and grumpy is not good. I hope they can reconfigure their menu and at the very least, add some organic chips for your kiddie consumers when your progressive potatoes are depleted!
November 12, 2005 at 6:40 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )